Jozankei is Sapporo’s nearest onsen town, 45 minutes south of the city centre by bus. The Toyohira River cuts through a narrow mountain gorge where ryokans and hotels line both banks, drawing hot spring water from underground sources that have been flowing since a monk named Miizumi Jozan discovered them in 1866.
The appeal is proximity and accessibility. No train transfers, no luggage logistics. A single bus from Sapporo Station drops you in the middle of the onsen district. By evening you are soaking in a rotenburo overlooking a river gorge that, in October, turns the most intense shade of red and gold you will see anywhere in Hokkaido.
Is Jozankei Worth Visiting?
Yes, but what you get depends on when you go. In autumn (mid-October), Jozankei is one of the most beautiful places in Hokkaido. The gorge walls turn red and gold, the river reflects the colours, and the Futami Suspension Bridge gives you the perfect framing. The illumination event after dark adds another dimension.
In winter, the snow-covered gorge and the experience of soaking in an outdoor bath while snowflakes land on your shoulders is classic Hokkaido onsen. In summer, the green forest canopy and cooler mountain air make it a comfortable escape from the city. Spring is the quietest season with the best ryokan availability and lowest prices.
If you only have time for one onsen experience near Sapporo, Jozankei is easier to reach than Noboribetsu (45 minutes by bus vs 75 minutes by train + bus). Noboribetsu has more dramatic volcanic scenery and more variety in spring types. Jozankei has the gorge, the autumn foliage, and the convenience of being practically in Sapporo’s backyard.
Things to Do
Soak in the Hot Springs
The main reason to visit. Jozankei has over 50 hot spring sources producing 8,600 litres per minute. The water is sodium chloride-based, which means it feels silky on the skin and keeps your body warm long after you leave the bath. Most ryokans have both indoor baths and outdoor rotenburo overlooking the river or gorge.
Day-Use Bathing (No Overnight Stay Required)
- Hoheikyo Onsen — the most popular day-use facility, about 10 minutes upstream from the main onsen area. Large outdoor baths in a forest setting, with a waterfall visible from the women’s bath. Indian curry lunch available in the restaurant (an oddly specific but well-reviewed combination). Approximately 1,200 yen. Official info
- Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta — the premium ryokan offers day-use of its bath facilities. Modern design, excellent facilities. Day-use from approximately 1,500 yen. Booking.com
- Jozankei Grand Hotel Shikanoyu — large hotel with a pool-sized bath and waterfall feature. Day-use from approximately 1,500 yen.
- Jozankei Manseikaku Hotel Milione — European-themed hotel with large bath area. Day-use available. Booking.com
Free Foot Baths
Several free ashiyu (foot baths) are scattered through the town along the river. The most popular sits near the Kappa statue by the Futami Suspension Bridge. Bring a towel. These are a good way to sample the hot spring water without committing to a full bath or paying an entry fee.
Private and Mixed Baths
For visitors who prefer privacy — whether for tattoos, mixed-gender bathing, or personal preference — several hotels offer kashikiri buro (private reserved baths). Book at the front desk, typically 2,000-4,000 yen per session (45-60 minutes). Jozankei Grand Hotel Shikanoyu has a dedicated private bath floor.
Autumn Foliage (Mid-October)
Jozankei’s autumn colours are the most accessible from Sapporo and among the most photogenic in Hokkaido. Peak timing is typically mid to late October, though this shifts by a few days each year depending on weather.
Best viewing spots:
- Futami Suspension Bridge — a red bridge spanning the gorge with views of coloured valley walls reflected in the water below. The signature Jozankei photograph.
- Jozankei Dam — an elevated viewpoint above the town overlooking the lake and forested hills. Drive or take the sightseeing bus.
- Nishikibashi Bridge — river-level views through the gorge.
- Futami Park — walking trails along the river with canopy views.
Jozankei Nature Luminarie: Late September to mid-October, the gorge is illuminated with coloured lights after dark. The combination of natural foliage and artistic lighting creates a night viewing experience. Free to attend. The illuminated path runs along the river near the Futami area.
Iwato Kannondo Temple
A 120-metre cave containing 33 Kannon (Goddess of Mercy) statues. Carved into the rock, the dimly lit passage leads through narrow tunnels past the statues. Entry 300 yen. Open 7:00-20:00. A unique religious site unlike anything in Sapporo.
Kappa Statue and Legend
A bronze kappa (water sprite from Japanese folklore) statue sits by the river near the main bridge. According to local legend, kappa inhabit the Toyohira River. The statue has become a photo spot and the town mascot appears on souvenirs throughout the district.
Hiking
Several trails start from the onsen area:
- Futami Walking Trail — easy 30-minute riverside walk through the gorge. Flat, accessible, best in autumn.
- Mt. Bankei trails — moderate hikes through the surrounding forest. 2-3 hours round trip.
- Hoheikyo Dam area — trails around the dam with views of the reservoir and mountains. Combine with a soak at Hoheikyo Onsen.
Where to Stay
Jozankei has approximately 20 ryokans and hotels. Most include dinner (kaiseki or buffet) and breakfast. The overnight experience — evening soak, multi-course dinner, morning bath — is the core appeal.
Premium
Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta — the top property. Modern design with natural materials, excellent kaiseki dining, multiple bath types. The forest setting and attention to detail justify the price.
Mid-Range
Jozankei Manseikaku Hotel Milione — large hotel with European-influenced design, spacious baths, and buffet dining with Hokkaido seafood. Good for families.
Jozankei Grand Hotel Shikanoyu — established hotel with large communal baths and private bath options. Mid-range pricing with reliable quality.
Jozankei Daiichi Hotel Suizantei — another solid mid-range option with river views from its baths.
Cost
| Tier | Per Person/Night | Includes |
|---|---|---|
| Premium ryokan | 25,000-50,000 yen | Private or semi-private bath, kaiseki dinner, breakfast |
| Mid-range hotel | 12,000-20,000 yen | Shared baths, buffet dinner and breakfast |
| Day visit only | 1,000-2,000 yen | Bath access at a hotel or Hoheikyo Onsen |
Food and Dining
Most visitors eat at their ryokan — the included dinner is a highlight. But Jozankei also has a few standalone options:
- Ryokan kaiseki — the main food experience. Multi-course dinners featuring Hokkaido crab, salmon, seasonal vegetables, and local specialties. At premium ryokans, this is 8-12 courses.
- Hoheikyo Onsen restaurant — known for Indian curry, oddly enough. A popular lunch stop before or after bathing.
- Small restaurants and cafes — a handful of options near the bus terminal serve ramen, soba, and light meals. Limited compared to Sapporo.
- Snack stalls — seasonal vendors near the walking trails sell corn, dango, and soft serve.
Is Jozankei Family-Friendly?
Yes. The gorge walks are flat and accessible for strollers. Several hotels have family rooms and children’s menus. The Kappa statue and legend appeals to kids. The autumn illumination is free and family-friendly. Some hotels offer private family baths where children can bathe with parents regardless of gender separation rules.
Hoheikyo Onsen has a more relaxed atmosphere than some traditional ryokans and is comfortable for families with younger children.
Getting There
From Sapporo: Jotetsu Bus from Sapporo Station Bus Terminal (South Exit). Route 7 or 8, approximately 60-75 minutes depending on traffic. Fare approximately 800-1,000 yen one-way. Buses run every 15-30 minutes.
The Kappa Liner express bus is faster (approximately 45 minutes, advance reservation recommended during peak foliage season). Departs from Sapporo Station.
By car: 40 minutes from central Sapporo via Route 230. Parking available at hotels and at the Jozankei Dam area.
There is no train service to Jozankei. The bus is the only public transport option.
Official transport info: Jozankei Official Site
Jozankei vs Noboribetsu
| Jozankei | Noboribetsu | |
|---|---|---|
| From Sapporo | 45-75 min by bus | 75 min train + 15 min bus |
| Scenery | River gorge, autumn foliage | Volcanic crater, Hell Valley |
| Spring types | Sodium chloride (1 main type) | 9 different mineral types |
| Atmosphere | Quiet mountain retreat | Dramatic volcanic landscape |
| Best for | Quick escape, autumn visit, convenience | Serious onsen enthusiast, volcanic scenery |
| Price range | Similar | Similar |
Both are excellent. If you have time for only one: Jozankei in autumn, Noboribetsu any other season. See our Noboribetsu guide.
Practical Tips
- Towel: Bring one for the free foot baths. Ryokans provide towels for their baths.
- Cash: Carry some. The smaller snack stalls and the foot bath vending machines are cash-only.
- Autumn booking: Peak foliage weekends (mid-October) sell out weeks ahead. Book early or visit on a weekday.
- Winter access: The bus runs year-round but road conditions can affect timing. Allow extra travel time December through March.